A GUIDE TO SELECTING THE PERFECT FESTIVE HAM

by Kiran Stacey

The centrepiece of a traditional Christmas table is often a magnificent ham. Whether you favour a smoked or a green cure, securing a quality joint is key to the celebration. Opting for a larger piece is generally advisable, as it tends to carve more neatly and boasts a more consistent fat covering, which is crucial for flavour and that coveted glazed finish. Plus, the prospect of plentiful leftovers is an added seasonal delight.

That outer layer of fat is not just for show; it bastes the meat during cooking and transforms into a delectable, sticky crust when glazed. For those preferring classic, thinly sliced cold cuts, a smooth, brine-cured ham is ideal. If a slow-roasted, deeply flavoured centrepiece is the goal, a coarser-cut joint, often free from added nitrates and nitrites, is the superior choice. While these preservatives have long been used to achieve a pink hue and distinctive taste, many shoppers now seek alternatives due to health considerations. Excellent nitrate-free options are available, though they typically have a darker colour and more rustic texture.

Sourcing ham from ethically reared pigs can be a challenge on the high street, with free-range and organic options often scarce. This scarcity has driven many to explore online butchers who specialise in high-welfare meat and offer national delivery. These suppliers frequently have order deadlines and delivery schedules, so planning ahead is essential. Signing up for newsletters can also unlock introductory offers, making this a savvy route to premium quality for the holidays. Of course, a trusted local butcher remains an excellent source—provided you place your order with plenty of notice.

When selecting, look for certifications indicating outdoor-reared or organic pigs. Choosing products from heritage breeds, such as Gloucestershire Old Spots, not only supports traditional farming practices but also promotes biodiversity and more sustainable agriculture.

For a recent evaluation, several gammon joints were prepared by bringing them to a boil, refreshing the water, and then simmering for 30 minutes per 500g, plus an additional 30 minutes. They were tasted both warm and cold without glazing to assess the pure flavour and texture of the meat.

A Selection of Standout Hams:

A brine-cured and air-dried gammon with a superb 10mm fat layer. It offers a wonderfully sweet, balanced flavour with great depth and a medium-coarse texture, produced from free-range Saddleback pigs.
A neat, smaller joint with a thick, glossy fat cap. It provides a savoury, tender eat that slices perfectly, made from British pork leg reared outdoors year-round. It represented notable value among free-range options.
A quintessential dry-cured ham with a generous fat layer and a balanced, sweet-savoury flavour. It slices neatly and is produced from free-range British pigs reared outdoors in straw-bedded shelters.
A light pink, boneless ham with a deliciously sweet and subtle flavour behind its salty notes. The meat is smooth and tender, made from free-range, brine-cured pork.
A generous round joint from outdoor-raised Gloucestershire Old Spot pigs, offering a distinctive sweet and gamey flavour that produces a lovely clear jelly when cooked.
A large, well-strung gammon with dark meat and a strong, well-balanced flavour. Though quite salty, it benefits from a double-boiling method. It comes from outdoor-reared pigs fattened on small farms.
A beautifully rolled, wet-cured joint with a perfectly savoury flavour and smooth texture that slices easily. It is sourced from outdoor-bred pigs farmed in Cornwall.

With careful selection and timely ordering, a spectacular ham can be the crowning glory of your festive feast.

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