In a fashion landscape increasingly captivated by spectacle, one of America’s last major heritage designers continues to build a global empire by focusing on a principle some in the industry treat as an afterthought: wearability for a diverse clientele.
The designer, whose name has become synonymous with accessible luxury, argues that the industry has developed a misplaced aversion to practicality. “There’s a perception that ‘wearable’ or ‘commercial’ are negative terms,” he notes, expressing concern that the focus has shifted away from what customers actually want and need in their daily lives.
His brand’s success is built on a two-pronged approach: a high-glamour image populated by celebrities and a fiercely successful diffusion line that brings the iconic logo to high streets worldwide. This strategy has cemented its position as the economic cornerstone of its parent company, especially following the recent sale of another major luxury asset.
While the industry grapples with a concerning return to exclusively thin models on runways—a shift some attribute to new weight-loss pharmaceuticals—this designer’s shows continue to feature a range of body sizes. He finds the fluctuating commitment to inclusivity elsewhere frustrating. “Fashion can be overly trendy,” he observes. “Inclusivity isn’t a trend; it’s about progress. We all know people of different ages and sizes. Shouldn’t everyone be invited to the party?”
The brand’s foundation was laid in the early 1980s with collections featuring relaxed, sport-inspired tailoring, pioneering a look that would later define the athleisure category. Today, the empire extends far beyond clothing into accessories, fragrance, and eyewear.
Politically, dressing high-profile figures from across the spectrum is described as “the trickiest thing in the world.” The designer empathizes with the intense scrutiny faced by public figures, comparing it to the pressure of the red carpet. “People think celebrities can wear anything, but they are often just as petrified,” he says.
The parent company’s renewed strategic focus is on capturing the substantial mid-tier luxury market. As prices for top-tier luxury goods have soared, a segment of aspirational customers has been effectively priced out of an annual splurge. The brand aims to serve this customer with items like functional yet stylish totes and updated classics, all at a pointedly accessible price point that retailers credit for its consistent top-seller status.
The designer emphasizes that staying connected to the customer is non-negotiable. He splits his time between glamorous launch events and visiting shoppers in suburban malls. “If you lock yourself in your atelier, you limit yourself,” he states. “You have to stay curious.” He identifies the current demand as being for items that “delight but still function,” marking a move away from disposable, single-wear fashion.
Now in his seventh decade, the designer isn’t focused on retirement or succession. “In fashion, you’re always working on the next thing. As long as I’m curious and energized, I’ll keep going.” While not nostalgic, he admits to searching for pieces from his earliest collections, often finding that original owners are unwilling to part with them.
Ultimately, he pins his brand’s lasting appeal on a simple, human-centric design philosophy. “If you’re a good designer and you like people, your job is to be a problem solver—for different ages, different sizes, different lives,” he concludes. It is this focus on inclusive practicality, rather than fleeting spectacle, that continues to drive its global resonance.